Six brooches at Sworders’ upcoming auction including a ‘perfect’ example of French Art Deco
06 November 2019 A welcome trend in the jewellery market has been the resurgence of the brooch.
An Art Deco platinum and gold, ruby and diamond brooch attributed to Chaumet, c.1930 – estimated at £5000-7000 at Sworders.
When in October Baroness Brenda Hales gave her verdict on Boris Johnson’s ‘illegal’ prorogation of Parliament what social media users really wanted to know is ‘where did she get that spider brooch?’
The jewel-encrusted arachnid joins other similar brooches the baroness has worn for the cameras, including a gem-set caterpillar and a diamond butterfly.
Both in retail and at auction, the fortunes of the brooch are improving. Relegated for many years as ‘old fashioned’, brooches are once again being recognised by a generation of buyers as an accessory bursting with personality. As the most senior judge in the country will contest, a brooch provides an accent to an otherwise formal or monochromatic gown.
The Sworders Fine Jewellery, Watches and Designer Handbags sale on November 19-20 boasts more than 80 different brooches catering for a range of budgets and tastes. Here we select six examples offered at the sale but many more brooches are also available at other auctions across the country every week on thesaleroom.com.
1. French Art Deco brooch
A perfect example of French Art Deco – perhaps the chicest of all jewellery styles – is this crescent shaped brooch from c.1930.
It is composed of a rows of milligrain set diamonds punctuated by calibre cut rubies and comes in a fitted case for J Chaumet, de Morel and Cie (of Paris and London). Attributed to the maker, still operating in Paris after 240 years, it carries an estimate of £5000-7000.
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2. Diamond navette form brooch
A French Art Deco platinum, gold, rock crystal, onyx and diamond brooch, c.1925 – estimated at £2500-3500 at Sworders.
An open navette form brooch from c.1925 fashioned from frosted rock crystal, cabochon onyx and milligrain graduated diamonds set in platinum and 18ct white gold is equally stylish.
It comes in a fitted case inscribed for Alfred Hamsy Joallier, 277 rue St Honore, Paris-Cannes and is estimate £2500-3500.
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3. Victorian sunburst brooch
A late Victorian sapphire and diamond sunburst brooch/pendant, c.1890 – estimated £4000-4500 at Sworders.
Many brooches also find favour today for their versatility: they can also be hung from a chain as a pendant.
A textbook late Victorian sapphire and diamond sunburst brooch/pendant, c.1890 has a detachable brooch fitting. It is estimated at £4000-5000
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4. Pearl and diamond brooch
An 18ct gold mabé pearl and diamond brooch from 1997 by Cassandra Goad, with a detachable brooch fitting – estimated at £400-500 at Sworders.
Another versatile brooch is this 18ct gold shield form example centred by a large mabé pearl and diamonds at the compass points by contemporary London maker Cassandra Goad (1997).
It is estimated at £400-500.
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5. Bunch of grapes brooch
French gold, silver, diamond and paste grape and vine brooch, attributed to Fonsèque et Olive – estimated at £1750-1850 at Sworders.
Animal subjects are currently popular when it comes to brooches.. but what about fruit?
This gold, silver, diamond and paste grape and vine brooch is attributed to French makers Fonsèque et Olive. It is estimated at £1750-1850.
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6. Diamond flower brooch
Continental white gold lapis lazuli, nephrite and diamond flower brooch – estimated at £700-900 at Sworders.
Continuing on the theme of vegetation, this Continental white gold lapis lazuli, nephrite and diamond flower brooch is estimated at £700-900 at the Sworders sale.
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